The Classic Mediterranean Diet Combines Fabulous Taste With Health ProtectionAmerican Institute for Cancer Research Cancer researchers who study diets of different countries or regions to discover the nature of their cancer-protective benefits caution against focusing on narrow aspects or single foods in a diet. During the 11th Annual Research Conference on Diet, Nutrition and Cancer, held this month in Washington, D.C., noted scientists stressed the need to look at the whole diet instead. Diets that received the closest attention were those of the Mediterranean region, especially the Greek island of Crete.  "No single food or compound can provide the different kinds of cells in the body with the unique kind of protection they require," says Dr. David Heber of the UCLA Center for Human Nutrition, who opened a conference session addressing diets for cancer prevention and treatment. "Rather, there is a growing focus on how foods interact to provide health benefits - a concept known as synergy." In discussing her research on the classic Mediterranean diet, Dr. Mariette Gerber, who is the head of the Metabolic Epidemiology Group at INSERM, the French Institute of Health and Medical Research in Montpellier, France, reinforced this point. She noted "There is a distressing tendency for people to oversimplify what we have come to know about the diets of the Mediterranean region. People often tend to look at the wine, olive oil, or other single elements that have been studied in isolation. But it's the collective impact of the entire range of foods in the diet that accounts for its disease-protective powers." A third conference presentation, by Dr. Artemis P. Simopoulos, President of the Center for Genetics, Nutrition and Health in Washington, D.C., focused on the traditional diet of the Greeks, notably, the classic diet of Crete. The traditional Crete diet is so well known for its focus on leafy greens that the people of Crete were once called mangifolia, meaning "leaf-eaters." The diet also focuses on other plant-based foods - fruits, vegetables, wild plants, nuts and cereals, olive oil and olives - plus several additional features: less milk but more cheese, and more fish but less meat. Scientists believe that diets rich in plant-based foods are the most protective of chronic diseases like cancer. From this perspective, the traditional Greek diet is a model diet: - daily servings of grains, vegetables, fruits, beans, nuts, cheese, yogurt and olive oil as the sole source of added fat; - a few weekly servings of fish, poultry, eggs and sweets; and - red meat eaten only a few times a month, usually reserved for holidays and ceremonial occasions. Traditional Greek Cuisine Capitalizes on Its Natural Bounty Greek cuisine is known for its mezes, or "little dishes," which are eaten as a kind of quick snack, as starters to meals, or as the meal itself. They may be as simple as the classic combination of bread and olives, or one of the many dips, spreads, or salads that make use of many different vegetables. Souvlaki, a classic grilled treatment of foods marinated in a mixture of olive oil, lemon juice, oregano and other seasonings, is used for vegetables and seafood as well as the red meats served so frequently in Greek restaurants in America. "Tzatziki" are a type of appetizer that makes frequent use of yogurt. On a blistering hot day, such as those that typify summer in Greece, yogurt provides a soothing and refreshing way to start a meal. The version below can be used as a dip for raw vegetables, a sauce for cooked vegetables served at room temperature, or as a spread on pita or other traditional Greek bread. Carrot Tzatziki 4 cups plain non-fat yogurt To achieve a proper consistency, yogurt must be drained before using. (Yogurt, especially low-fat versions, "weeps" when left standing or salty foods are added.) Lightly salt yogurt (to jump-start the "weeping" process), place in sieve lined with cheesecloth and let excess liquid drip into bowl 4 to 5 hours or until it develops the consistency of sour cream. (The watery whey left behind need not be discarded. It can be used in cooking soups and vegetables.) Grate carrots to make about 1 cup packed. In medium bowl combine drained yogurt, carrots and remaining ingredients, including salt and pepper to taste. Let stand for at least 1 hour before serving. Makes about 3 1/2 cups or 14 1/4-cup servings. *1 cup packaged shredded carrot can also be used. Per serving: 60 calories, 3 g. fat (less than 1 g. saturated fat), 7 g. carbohydrate, 3 g. protein, less than 1 g. dietary fiber, 44 mg. sodium. Fennel and orange are both ancient fruits that were used not only in Greek cooking, but by Imperial Rome's soldiers on their long expeditions to distant lands. Fennel and Orange Salad Dressing 1 tsp. coriander seeds or 3/4 tsp. ground coriander Salad ingredients 1 small red onion To make dressing, heat small non-stick skillet over moderate heat until hot. Add coriander seeds or ground spice and toast, stirring constantly, until fragrant and slightly darker, about 1 to 2 minutes, watching process carefully to prevent burning. Remove from pan immediately. If using seeds, grind to coarse powder using cleaned coffee grinder, spice grinder, or mortar and pestle. In small bowl, whisk together coriander with remaining dressing ingredients. Cover and keep chilled until ready to use. (Dressing may be made 1 day ahead.) To prepare salad, cut onion in half crosswise, then slice very thin. Soak separated onion rings in medium bowl of ice cubes and cold water for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, cut stalks off fennel and discard. Remove leafy fronds and save for future use. (Fennel leaves are often used when baking or grilling fish.) Thinly slice fennel bulb crosswise. Remove peel and pith from oranges. Cut oranges crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Drain onion rings and pat dry between paper towels. Arrange fennel, onion and orange alternately in spiral ring design on serving platter. Sprinkle mint on top. Shake or whisk prepared dressing and drizzle over salad. Makes 6 servings. Per serving: 137 calories, 7 g. fat (1 g. saturated fat), 19 g. carbohydrate, 2 g. protein, 5 g. dietary fiber, 331 mg. sodium. The word souvlaki derives from soubla, the diminutive for "skewer." In the mountainous regions of Greece, cooking cut-up food on skewers was an efficient way to cook food on an open fire of precious fuel. Seafood Souvlaki 1 pound skinless striped bass, mahi mahi, whiting, or other firm, full-flavored fish filet, cut into 1-inch cubes Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Prepare grill. In large bowl combine fish with lemon juice, olive oil, oregano, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper. Cover and marinate in refrigerator 15 to 30 minutes. Place garlic on sheet of waxed paper. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Using flat side of a wide knife blade or heavy, flat-edged object, mash garlic into a paste. Scrape into small bowl. Peel and seed cucumber and grate coarsely. Wrap cucumber in cheesecloth (or handkerchief or thin kitchen towel) and squeeze to remove liquid. (Discard liquid.) Add cucumber to garlic paste and stir in cucumber, yogurt, mint, and salt and pepper to taste. In another bowl combine tomatoes, onion, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Wrap pitas in foil and keep warm in oven. Thread fish onto 4 skewers and grill on an oiled rack set 5 to 6 inches over hot coals, turning once, until just cooked, about 8 minutes. Remove fish from skewers. Cut warmed pita bread in half and open pockets. Spread interior of pockets with cucumber mixture. Add fish. Sprinkle tomato mixture over fish. Serve while warm. Makes 4 servings. Per serving: 344 calories, 6 g. fat (1 g. saturated fat), 45 g. carbohydrate, 30 g. protein, 6 g. dietary fiber, 748 mg. sodium.
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