Want hearty but slimming meals? Guilt-free gumbos fill the billAmerican Institute for Cancer Research Nutritionists at the American Institute for Cancer Research have reformulated the traditional Louisiana gumbo to create a healthful dish full of disease-fighting substitutes. Special seasonings and cooking techniques eliminate the unhealthful features - high levels of fat and calories - while preserving the rich "mouth feel" and smoky flavor. "Gumbos have a reputation for being high in calories and fat," says Melanie Polk, AICR's Director of Nutrition Education. "But Louisiana cuisine includes traditional gumbos that are good for our health and our waistlines, as well as our taste buds. Other gumbos can easily be modified to be more healthful, and make meatless Lenten dishes as satisfying as any Mardi Gras feast."  Gumbos Have a Rich and Complex History According to food historians, the term "gumbo" has its roots in West Africa. Okra, which is called 'ngombo in the Bantu language, came to the New World with African slaves, who used the vegetable in many dishes, including fish soups. Soon okra became a major ingredient in Louisiana dishes, like gumbo. In addition to its distinctive taste, okra is also prized (or disliked, in some quarters) for the viscous substance it releases, which helps thicken gumbo. Students of Louisiana's rich culinary history believe gumbo is a local interpretation of bouillabaisse because of the strong French influence on local cuisine. Other influences have also left their mark. Cajuns, who made their way from Canada to Louisiana in the 1760s, also contributed to the local cuisine, introducing rice and injecting Tabasco's fiery heat to gumbo and other dishes. Choctaw Indians in the bayous introduced a seasoning called filé powder (or gumbo filé), made by grinding cured sassafras leaves to a powder. In addition to giving gumbo a pleasantly woodsy flavor, the seasoning gives body and depth. Filé powder is often used in place of okra for its thickening properties. Three Steps to Making a Healthier Gumbo According to Polk, one reason for gumbo's intense, rich flavor is the use of a roux, made by cooking a mixture of flour and oil until it browns to a shade ranging from burnished gold to mahogany brown. "But this classic roux," she warns, "makes a gumbo very high in fat." She estimates that a gumbo containing a traditional roux made with a half-cup of oil and intended to serve four people would add an extra 15 grams of fat to each serving - more than the equivalent found in 6 tablespoons of guacamole. To eliminate this high-fat content but preserve a rich flavor, Polk recommends the use of a technique popularized by two celebrated Louisiana chefs (and siblings), Enola and Paul Prudhomme. Flour is toasted over a low heat until it turns brown and takes on a mildly nutty taste. Later, a stock is slowly added to the flour. Known as a "dry roux," flour prepared this way is in fact a non-fat substitute for the traditional roux. "Proportion is another key way to make gumbo a more healthful dish," says Polk. She recommends that gumbo recipes containing animal meats follow the proportions laid out in AICR's brochure, The New American Plate. (See Editor's Note at end.) To lower the risk of cancer and other chronic diseases, the Institute recommends that meals contain two-thirds (or more) vegetables, fruits, whole grains and legumes and one-third (or less) animal protein. A panel of leading scientists endorsed these proportions after examining 247 studies on the link between cancer and eating fruits and vegetables. They found that 78 percent showed vegetables and fruits to be cancer protective. This benefit is attributed to their rich supply of vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals, cancer-protective compounds found only in plant foods. Polk's third recommendation for improving the nutritional profile of a gumbo meal regards its accompaniments. Gumbos are served on a bed of rice, which absorbs the liquid and tempers the dish's heat. Although white rice is the traditional accompaniment, Polk suggests using brown rice for added nutrition and serving gumbo with a leafy green salad and whole-grain bread. Gumbo Makes a Perfectly Healthful Dish That's Perfect for Lent Polk notes that one gumbo in particular, Gumbo z'Herbes, which is traditionally served on Good Friday, is a powerhouse of health protection. The classic Gumbo z'Herbes, which is short for aux herbes (meaning "of greens"), contains at least seven types of leafy greens, for luck. "The greens used in Gumbo z'Herbes are packed with vitamins, minerals and other substances that protect our health," observes Polk. Those greens, which typically include kale, spinach, turnip, mustard and collard greens, are rich in antioxidants and phytochemicals. For example, cruciferous vegetables like kale and both collard and mustard greens contain a group of phytochemicals called dithiolthiones, which are believed to fight carcinogens and help inhibit the development of cancer. Another substance found in many cruciferous vegetables, isothiocyanate, is one of the most effective cancer-fighting agents known. Spinach, kale, okra, and collard and mustard greens contain phytochemicals that appear to help ward off macular degeneration as well as decrease the risk of lung cancer. Okra is also a source of dietary fiber, vitamins A and C, and folic acid, a B vitamin that helps protect against stroke and heart attack. Folic acid is known for its cancer-protective properties, especially against colon cancer. "From a cancer-protective viewpoint, Gumbo z'Herbes - or any gumbo that makes use of many leafy greens - can bring good luck to all who enjoy it," notes Polk. In addition to mainstays like spinach and chard, the magical seven greens might include collard, turnip, or mustard greens, watercress, arugula and the green tops of beets, carrots, radishes and even dandelions. Okra is a traditional ingredient for almost any gumbo, but many dislike its viscous quality, which helps thicken this dish. When added to any gumbo, it should be cooked at least 30 minutes or until its "ropiness" or "stringiness" disappears. Okra may be added to the following gumbo or not, depending on individual tastes, but note that either okra or filé powder can be used in a gumbo, but never both in the same dish. Gumbo z'Herbes 2/3 cup flour to make a "dry," or non-fat roux Make a dry or non-fat roux by browning flour in non-stick skillet over low heat. Stirring constantly, brown flour until it turns a medium brown. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside to cool. Heat oil in saucepan on medium heat. Lightly sauté onion, then bell pepper, celery and chopped garlic, until softened, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle in dry roux and stir until well blended. Remove from heat and set aside. Into large stock pot, place greens, 3 mashed garlic cloves, bay leaves, basil, thyme, allspice, cloves and water. Cover and bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer until greens are almost but not quite tender, about 5 minutes. Drain greens, reserving liquid, and remove large pieces of garlic. Chop greens and return to pot. Measure out 2 cups reserved liquid. Return roux/vegetable mixture to stove and heat over medium heat, stirring, until hot. Whisking constantly, slowly add 2 cups reserved liquid from greens until completely blended and smooth. Add to pot of greens, stirring until combined well. Slowly add additional reserved liquid to greens until gumbo becomes a soup-like mixture. (Less than the total amount of reserved liquid may be needed.) Add parsley, salt, black pepper, cayenne pepper and Liquid Smoke seasoning (if desired) to taste. Simmer until greens are completely tender, about 5 to 10 minutes. Divide rice equally among 6 bowls. Add equal amounts of gumbo over rice. Serve with filé powder and hot sauce on the side, for individuals to add to each bowl, if desired. Note: If using okra, add to cooking liquid after greens have been drained and simmer about 30 minutes, or until "ropiness" or "stringiness" disappears. Then add chopped greens and continue with recipe. Do not use filé powder if using okra. Makes 6 servings, each containing 268 calories and 5 grams of fat. The voodoo in the next gumbo refers to the magic of mushrooms, which produce a rich body and satisfying "mouth feel" that make meat unnecessary. Voodoo Gumbo 2/3 cup flour Make a non-fat roux in non-stick skillet: Lightly brown flour over low-to-medium heat, stirring constantly, until flour turns a light peanut butter color. Immediately transfer flour to a small bowl and set aside to cool. In large, deep skillet or Dutch oven, heat oil over high heat until very hot. Depending on size of pan, sauté mushrooms in enough batches so pan is not overcrowded, or mushrooms will cook instead of sauté, causing them to ooze liquid. Remove sautéed mushrooms with slotted spoon and set aside. Add onion to pan and sauté about 1 minute. (Add 1 tsp. of oil if necessary.) Add chives, celery and garlic and cook another minute. Add bell peppers and cook about one minute, or until all vegetables are lightly sautéed. Sprinkle non-fat roux (browned flour) over vegetables and quickly stir in, scraping bottom of pan. Stir in herbs and seasonings. Slowly add broth, whisking or stirring constantly, to blend to a smooth, lump-free mixture. Add mushrooms, bring to a boil and immediately reduce heat to simmer gently until mushrooms are tender, about 10 minutes. Adjust seasonings, adding more salt and black and cayenne peppers to taste if necessary. Add hot sauce and Liquid Smoke seasoning (if used) to taste. During the cooking process, oil may be released from the roux. Before serving, any excess fat should be skimmed off with a skimmer or paper toweling. (Chilling overnight in a refrigerator improves taste of gumbo and in the process, fat will congeal and become easier to remove from surface.) When ready to serve, divide cooked rice evenly among 6 bowls. Spoon equal amounts of gumbo over rice. Garnish with chopped chives. Serve with filé powder for individuals to spoon into gumbo to taste. Makes 6 servings, each containing 304 calories and 6 grams of fat. Although technically not a gumbo, the classic New Orleans dish of red beans and rice is a close relative. According to folklore, this dish was served on "wash day," traditionally a Monday. Because of the long cooking time involved, many households found it convenient to cook it over a more leisurely weekend and serve it on the day they were too busy doing laundry to prepare a time-consuming dinner. The version below calls for a small amount of meat and chicken stock, but eliminating the meat and using vegetable broth will make Red Bean Gumbo a meatless dish appropriate for Lenten meals. Updated Red Bean Gumbo 1 lb. dried red kidney beans (about 2 cups), picked over and rinsed About one hour before preparing the gumbo: In large container or pot, cover beans with boiling hot water to at least 2 inches. Cover and let stand until beans have swelled to at least twice their size and have absorbed most of water, about 1 hour. Drain beans, discarding soaking liquid. In a large, heavy pot or Dutch oven, heat oil until hot. Add onion and garlic and gently sauté until onion is translucent and garlic is soft, taking care they do not brown. Add celery and bell pepper and sauté 1 to 2 minutes more, stirring frequently. Add ham and lightly sauté. Mix in herbs, seasonings, bouillon and beans. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Partially cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until beans are tender, about 1 hour. Note: Although white rice is the traditional accompaniment, for additional nutrition, use brown rice. Makes 6 servings, each containing 516 calories and 8 grams of fat. Editor's Note: Consumers can receive a free copy of AICR's brochure, The New American Plate, by calling 1-800-843-8114, extension 33, between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. ET, Monday through Friday. The boxes below, with directions for a non-fat roux and tips for healthful gumbos, may be useful accompaniments to feature articles. NON-FAT OR "DRY" ROUX Put 1/2 cup flour in non-stick skillet over low-to-medium heat. Stir frequently at first, then constantly as flour begins to toast and take on color. Occasionally shake pan to help keep flour moving and color evenly. Flour can burn easily, so watch heat level and adjust as needed. Be prepared to lift pan away from burner if necessary to prevent flour from burning. Once flour begins to cook, it will color quickly, so pay close attention. At 5 to 7 minutes, flour will turn a medium brown - the color of light brown sugar or peanut butter. Do not allow flour to turn darker - dry roux turns darker when liquid is added later. Transfer flour to a small bowl and allow to cool. Transfer to tightly covered jar and store in refrigerator, where it will keep several weeks. When making gumbo, sprinkle dry roux over sautéed vegetables, mix in well, then slowly add bouillon, stirring constantly, to create a smooth, lump-free mixture. SECRETS OF A HEALTHFUL GUMBO MEAL 1. Replace traditional roux with a non-fat "dry" roux made by browning flour to a medium brown. Add to sautéed vegetables, then slowly add stock or broth and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens. (For added thickening, include okra when cooking gumbo or serve finished gumbo along with filé powder to add at the table. 2. Serve gumbo with brown rice instead of white. 3. Accompany the gumbo with a leafy green salad and crusty whole grain bread.
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