The Casserole Makes A Comeback With New Tricks And New Tastes

American Institute for Cancer Research
Thursday, 20 July 2000

After a decline in popularity that began in the 1970s, the casserole is back on the culinary scene. Its resurgence is due to a makeover that reflects today's interest in lighter, healthier entrées while still retaining the speed and simplicity that made the casserole a long-time favorite.

Melanie Polk, Director of Nutrition Education at the American Institute for Cancer Research (AICR), says, "New cooking techniques make it easy to prepare a casserole today with more variety and flexibility. And with its greater use of vegetables and grains, the modern casserole is an easy and enjoyable way to satisfy the demand for healthier dishes."

Casseroles Reach Their Peak in the Fifties

Although the casserole has a long history in America, it did not begin to attract major attention until condensed, canned soups came on the market. It became an American staple in the Depression, when cheap but filling meals were essential, and rose in popularity during World War II as women began to enter the workplace in large numbers. It reached its heyday in the fifties. The casserole of the past was usually made by combining a cream sauce with meat, poultry, or fish that was often canned or leftover from a previous meal. A small amount of vegetables like onions and celery was added, primarily for texture. Part of the decline in the casserole's popularity was due to an overreliance on leftovers, canned foods and "instant" sauces.

The Casserole Gets a Makeover and Regains Popularity

Because of the demand for fast yet tasty main dishes, many recent cookbooks have focused on the casserole. Amazon Books alone carries 75 cookbooks that feature casseroles, and an Internet search engine can produce over 22,000 entries for the term.

The updated casserole, according to Polk, is now frequently prepared on top of the stove, not in the oven. "In the slow-baked method of the traditional casserole," she says, "many vegetables lose texture and color, and their water content can turn sauces soupy. Today's no-bake casserole can make greater use of vegetables, and different grains as well."

The no-bake casserole can be prepared quickly by combining ingredients that have been cooked separately - a starchy grain like pasta and a generous portion of tender-crisp vegetables, plus an optional addition of meat. The mixture is then swiftly bound together with a sauce.

"This new, improved casserole," says Polk, "has a number of virtues, especially flexibility. It allows a greater variety of vegetables, which helps maximize the amount of cancer-fighting substances found only in plant-based foods.

"It also lets the cook increase the proportion of grains and reduce the amount of meat. Those changes in proportion help get us closer to a plant-based diet, one of the most effective weapons we have to combat cancer."

An AICR panel of experts reviewed 247 studies on the link between vegetables and fruit and cancer prevention. A substantial majority of the studies, 78 percent, showed vegetables and fruits to be protective, and none showed a negative effect.

AICR recommends meals in which two-thirds or more of the ingredients are plant-based foods and one-third or less derive from animal sources. The casserole lends itself well to such proportions.

The following no-bake casserole, from AICR's forthcoming brochure, the New American Plate, is a colorful medley of pasta and vegetables, combining both Western and Asian ingredients. The oil in the orange peel is the most abundant source of a powerful cancer-fighting substance called limonene.

East-Meets-West Casserole

8 oz. bow-tie pasta (preferably whole wheat)
2 Tbsp. reduced-sodium soy sauce
1/2 Tbsp. sesame oil
1/2 cup orange juice
2 tsp. grated orange peel or to taste (see Note)
1 tsp. cornstarch
non-stick cooking spray
1-2 garlic cloves, minced
1 Tbsp. fresh ginger, grated
1 cup green onion, chopped
1 1/2 cup mushrooms, sliced
1 cup asparagus cut in 1-inch pieces
1 orange, peeled, seeded and diced
1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds
1 cup cooked chicken in bite-size pieces
(canned black beans, drained and rinsed, may be substituted)

Cook pasta according to package directions, quickly rinse with cold water and drain well.

In the meantime, make the sauce by mixing together soy sauce, sesame oil, juice, orange peel and cornstarch.

Coat a large nonstick skillet with cooking spray and place over medium heat. Sauté garlic and ginger until a pale gold, about 1 minute, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Add onion and mushrooms and sauté, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes. Add asparagus and sauté for 2 minutes more.

Re-stir sauce and add to skillet. Cook, stirring constantly, until vegetables are tender and the sauce thickens, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add pasta, orange pieces and chicken (or beans), stirring lightly until all ingredients are well mixed.

Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve.

Note: When preparing the orange peel for grating, make sure the white pith has been removed, as it has a bitter taste.

Makes 4 servings, each containing 340 calories and 8 grams of fat.

Kasha, another name for roasted buckwheat, has a nutty taste that complements vegetables well. In the following casserole, jicama is used to provide a pleasant contrast to the soft texture of the kasha and vegetables. Jicama, a large Mexican vegetable with a mild, slightly sweet taste, retains its crunch despite cooking and also works well in most salads. Canned water chestnuts or red radishes can be substituted.

Kasha and Chicken Casserole

1/2 cup kasha (see Note)
1 egg (or egg white), lightly beaten
1 cup fat-free chicken or vegetable broth
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 small carrot, sliced
1 small onion, thinly sliced
8-10 mushrooms, sliced
1/2 cup diced fresh jicama, canned water chestnuts, or red radishes
1 cup cooked chicken, in bite-sized pieces (optional)

Cook kasha until tender. To bring out the full flavor of the kasha, follow package instructions using the egg and broth. (Alternately, if pressed for time, cook kasha in broth until tender, which will produce adequate results if not optimum taste.)

In the meantime, heat a large, nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add 1 tbsp. oil, coating the bottom of the pan. Add the carrot and sauté until almost soft (about 4 minutes), stirring occasionally. Add onion and sauté, stirring, just until it turns translucent. Remove carrot and onion and set aside.

Add remaining oil to skillet and when hot add mushrooms and jicama. Sauté, stirring often, until mushrooms are lightly brown and tender. Add chicken (if used) and stir until heated through. Return carrots and onion to pan and stir to combine. Add cooked kasha and mix well. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Note: Brown rice may be used in place of kasha, using package directions to cook.

Makes 4 servings, each containing 137 calories and 8 grams of fat.

A traditional baked casserole with a healthful proportion of vegetables, this Spanish Chicken and Rice Casserole is light enough to serve in warm weather and is featured in AICR's forthcoming brochure, the New American Plate. Arborio rice, which bakes to a creamy smoothness, comes from both Italian and domestic sources, and either type is suitable.

Spanish Chicken and Rice Casserole

1 1/4 cup Arborio rice
1 small onion, chopped
1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 14.5-oz. can stewed tomatoes
1 1/4 cup canned chicken broth
1 tsp. paprika
1/2 tsp. dried oregano
1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1 7-oz. jar roasted red peppers, drained and chopped
2 medium chicken breasts, skinless and boneless, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup frozen green peas

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

In a 2-quart casserole dish, combine rice, onion and oil. Add tomatoes, one cup of broth, paprika, oregano, pepper, roasted peppers, chicken and bay leaf. Stir to combine well. Cover and bake casserole 30 minutes.

Stir in peas and add an additional 1/4 cup broth if needed to keep rice from sticking. Bake until chicken and rice are cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove bay leaf and serve.

Makes 6 servings, each containing 311 calories and 5 grams of fat.

For more information, or to contact American Institute for Cancer Research, see their website at: www.aicr.org

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